Gothic Lolita

Gothic Lolita has two definitions. The term "Gothic and Lolita" is used by the Japanese to describe a sub-culture of teenagers who wear a wide range of fashions. It is used by English language sources mainly to describe a specific subset of Lolita fashion.

Among English language fandom, the term Elegant Gothic Lolita was originally used to describe a sub-set of Lolita fashion that was either all black, or mostly black with white accents. However, there are many subsets within 'Gothic Lolita,' including, but not limited shirorori (white lolita), kurorori (black lolita), gurorori (Gory or grotesque lolita), and punk lolita. Black (kuro) and white (shiro) lolitas wear all black and white respectively, guro lolitas are often defined by bandages and an "injured" appearance, and punk lolita adds a punk touch to lolita fashion. There are fashions similar in feeling to gothic lolita but they are not regarded by the gothic lolita community as authentic, rather "lolita-styled".

Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL) is a term coined by Mana (Guitarist and leader of Moi dix Mois and Malice Mizer, creator of clothing line Moi-même-Moitié). It can be considered a more mature version of gothic lolita, often worn by older teens and young women. The male 'counter-part' to EGL is EGA (Elegant Gothic Aristocrat); it is very tailored and stream-lined, both being mostly black and white. However, the term Gothloli (gosurori) is used by some foreigners to describe anyone in gothic or lolita.

Gothic lolita fashion is regarded by some of its adherents as more than simple dress, and can be an etiquette and mindset as well. In magazines/written works devoted to lolita fashion, this is also emphasized by advice given on how to behave and modest use of makeup. Some lolita just like the clothing/scene though; they are likely to have read this material, but may not actually follow any of it.


Lolita fashion draws much of its inspiration from Rococo, Victorian-style and Edwardian fashion and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian children or porcelain dolls. Gothic Lolita applies the aesthetics of Gothic fashion to the childlike, pretty Lolita fashion. The word Gothloli comes, quite naturally, from a combination of Lolita and Gothic fashion.

Gothic Lolita is the best-known of the various "Lolita" looks. Other categories include "Classic Lolita", which is often more mature-looking and contains more muted colors and floral prints and "Sweet Lolita" which is identified by childish pastel colors and cute prints.

Gothic Lolita style is usually a combination of black and white, often black with white lace and typically decorated with ribbons and lace trims. Skirts are knee length and may have a crinoline or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks or stockings are popular. White or black tights are also common. Boots, rockinghorse shoes, or child-like shoes such as Mary Janes complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses are also popular with Gothic Lolitas and designs are usually modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves and/or high-necked blouses.

Some additions may include mini top hats, parasols, and lace headdresses, which resemble wide, elegantly decorated headbands. Other popular Lolita headgear are ribbons, lace or bows, an alice band with a bow or sometimes even a bonnet. Hair is sometimes curled, or a curled wig is worn to complete the porcelain doll look. Blonde and black are the most popular hair colors, though as the fashion continues to develop, other colors (such as brown and red) are increasing in popularity.

Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like handbags, small backpacks and purses, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes, as well as conspicuous pocket books, pocket watches, and hat boxes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "gothic" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Some Lolitas own Super Dollfies or other ball-jointed dolls and carry them when wearing the style, often going so far as to dress them to match.

The lolita style began in the 1970's with brands such as Milk and Pink House making outfits that resembled Canada's Anne of Green Gables (which is widely loved in Japan) and, to a lesser extent, Little House on the Prairie. Angelic Pretty opened in 1979, Baby opened in the 80's, and Moi-meme-Moitie opened in 1999.

Mana, ex-Malice Mizer (co-founded with Kozi, also guitar), is widely credited for having helped popularize Gothic Lolita, though he is not a founder of the style. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999. Other influential figures in the scene include the singer Kana, who often modeled for Lolita related fashion magazines, and Mitsukazu Mihara, who drew the first eight covers of the Gothic & Lolita Bible.